With out a serial number I cannot say exactly when your model of 1917 Winchester was produced.I can say that Winchester produced 545,511 rifles between 1917-1919 for the U.S. Eddystone P-14 MkI. The serial numbers on the bolt, receiver and barrel match. Matching serial numbers on receiver and barrel shank. The. stamped on both indicates that this rifle was upgraded to MkI. specifications at some time in its history. The 7 stamped on the barrel shank would indicate that the barrel was made in 1917. United State Rifle, Caliber. 30 Model of 1917. Eddystone Arsenal. Serial number 317816. Frequently misidentified or mislabeled as the P17, P1917. Rifle, caliber. 30, M1917 2003 By Dick Culver Serial Numbers and Dates of Production of the M1917 Rifle by although the serial number listed for each.

• 1917 Eddystone 300 Win Mag
• 1917 Eddystone Rifle Serial Numbers

Click to expand.Thats a tough on wish I could help. Weapon looks like its in very good shape for the age.Is there a number you would share for what you have into it? I do know in my search for an original Springfield they are running between 1000.

Have not seen much on Enfield and not sure there is a comparison on the costs I have found for the Springfields.Have you checked. just to see if similar are posted there? That is usually the first place I start just to see.Would you consider that a carbine?? A cut rifle is a cut rifle. There were no U.S.

1917 Eddystone 300 Win Mag

Model of 1917 'Carbines'. You want to look for the rifle being completely intact.

The front sight protector should have an 'R' stamped on it. The front end of the stock should also have an 'R' stamped into the very end or tip of the stock.Over the past couple of decades, many of the U.S. Rifles used overseas were re-imported. These will have 'Import 'stamps' usually located on the front end of the barrel. These markings are not popular with collectors, and will usually reduce the value by a hundred dollars or more.The stock itself should have Arsenal stamps on it.

1917 Eddystone Rifle Serial Numbers

I couldn't see from the pictures, but if it went thru an Arsenal rebuild - there will be a stamp on the left side indicating a rebuild and where it was done. Going from memory (my rifle is down in the vault), there will be a 'P' in a circle on the bottom of the stock by the grip, and there will be an 'Eagle's Head' stamp just ahead of the magazine floorplate.These were made by Remington ('R' stamps), Eddystone ('E') and Winchester ('W' stamps). Look at the interior of the barrel (the bore). The bore should be clean and bright, and the twists (rifling) should be crisp and sharp.

These rifles were used at a time when corrosive ammunition was used - so bore condition is critical. Generally speaking, the order of desirability is 1.) Winchester, 2.) Remington and last 3.) the Eddystone. The spread that I've seen isn't really much - maybe $100 to $200. Also generally, the prices I've noted at Gun Shows runs between $600 and $850 for complete, original 1917s.

Your rifle looks to be (exterior) in at least 'average' condition. I would estimate right in at $650 in value.Just so you know - there were far more Model of 1917s issued to the Doughboys in WW1 for front line service than the U.S. Model of 1903 (Springfield and Rock Island). The Army used mainly the 1917s while the Marine Corps used mostly the '03s.The Firearms Forum is on online community for all gun enthusiasts. Join us to discuss firearms of all kinds, gun accessories, legal issues and more. Membership is free and we welcome all types of shooters, whether you're a novice or a pro.

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I was at a local gun shop today and they have a Eddystone 1917. The date on the barrel is 09/18. The shop owner told me the American Legion had the rifle and use it in their ceremonies. The rifle still looks great and in its original or at least military rebuilt condition.

The shop owner mentioned the Legion shot black powder blanks through it and is unsure on the condition of the bore. Does anyone know, will black powder blanks corrode or ruin the rifling in the barrel or is it something that would just need a good cleaning? My grandfather recieved two rifles from the VFW, a 1903 and a 1917. When he passed away I got to looking at them and the 1903 had a bore that looked like the inside of an empty cement truck barrel, while the 1917's barrel was absoluty perfect.

I don't know if the blanks caused that damage to the 1903 barrel, but something definitely messed it up. We took the '03 out and couldn't shoot groups under 8 inches, even at 50 yards.I guess you never know what to expect when talking about previous ceremonial rifles. Take the bolt out and look down to bore to make sure it looks good before you buy. 'from the ring being crushed' How do you determine this?? I agree it would be possible to crush a receiver without a barrel in it and it might crack in the typical pattern.

On the one I am looking at, the crack does line up with the edge of the heavy area of the receiver-about 2:00. However, the typical receiver wrench either does not compress the receiver at all or does so on the (bottom) flat, which is set quite a ways back from the forward thin area where the cracks occur.

Good Shooting. 'from the ring being crushed' How do you determine this?? I agree it would be possible to crush a receiver without a barrel in it and it might crack in the typical pattern. On the one I am looking at, the crack does line up with the edge of the heavy area of the receiver-about 2:00. However, the typical receiver wrench either does not compress the receiver at all or does so on the (bottom) flat, which is set quite a ways back from the forward thin area where the cracks occur.

Good Shooting.how many 1917,s have you rebarreled.?? I have been using the purple soap sold under a few different names with a couple actually being a different product. Confused yet? Anyway, the names are Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power, can't remember the name on Sam's Club version.This soap does a great job of cleaning out the gunk in a mil-surp barrel relatively fast. I use a swab to wet the bore and let it set for awhile then use a metal bore brush wet with the soap to scrub it.

I have a sink in the garage so flush it with water and do it again until it is clean. Usually 3 or 4 brushings are all that are needed.Do not get it on any anodized parts as it removes it.

I also use it after firing cast bullets and finish all guns up with Hoppe's #9. In humid areas you will have to oil it.This is also great soap for cleaning auto parts. Do not use it to scrub concrete as it will etch it.I did an 1891 Arg Mauser that looked like the rifling had sections missing and now the rifling shows very good and it is nice and shiny. I had cleaned this bore repeatedly with Hoppe's and other bore cleaners but they just did not do the job.So, OP if you get the 1917 give this a try. The black powder probably did irrepariable damage though.